Gemological characteristics
The use of diamonds as gemstones of decorative value is the most
familiar use to most people today, and is also the earliest use,
with decorative use of diamonds stretching back into antiquity.
The dispersion of white light into a rainbow of colors, known in
the trade as fire, is the other primary characteristic of gem
diamonds, and has been highly prized throughout history. Over
time, especially since around 1900, experts in the field of
gemology have developed methods of characterizing diamonds and
other gemstones based on the characteristics most important to
their value as a gem. Four characteristics, known informally as
the four Cs, are now commonly used as the basic descriptors of
diamonds: these are carat, clarity, color, and cut.
Most gem diamonds are traded on the wholesale market based on
single values for each of the four Cs; for example knowing that
a diamond is rated as 1.5 carats, VS2 clarity, F color,
excellent cut, is enough to reasonably establish an expected
price range. More detailed information from within each
characteristic can then be used to determine actual market value
for individual stones. Consumers who purchase individual
diamonds are often advised to use the four Cs to pick the
diamond that is "right" for them; to these is sometimes added
the "fifth C" of cost.
Other characteristics not described by the four Cs can and do
influence the value or appearance of a gem diamond. These
characteristics include physical characteristics such as the
presence of fluorescence, as well as data on a diamond's history
including its source and which gemological institute performed
evaluation services on the diamond. Cleanliness also
dramatically affects a diamond's beauty.
There are four major gemological associations which "certify"
diamonds: that is, define the four Cs of a diamond. While carat
weight and cut angles are mathematically defined, the clarity
and color are judged by the trained human eye and are therefore
open to slight variance in interpretation.
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) was the first laboratory
to issue modern diamond reports, and holds the highest
reputation amongst gemologists for its consistent, conservative
grading.
American Gemological Society (AGS) is not as widely recognized
nor as old as the GIA, but garners an equally high reputation.
International Gemological Laboratory (IGL) is a generally
respected laboratory but suffers from a negative industry
reputation for its grading practices, which are perceived by
critics as being either less conservative or less consistent
than the GIA and AGS.
European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) has a similar reputation
to the IGL.
Carat
The carat weight measures the mass of a diamond. One carat is
defined as exactly 200 milligrams (about 0.007 ounce). The point
unit—equal to one one-hundredth of a carat (0.01 carat, or 2
mg)—is commonly used for diamonds of less than one carat. All
else being equal, the value of a diamond increases exponentially
in relation to carat weight, since larger diamonds are both
rarer and more desirable for use as gemstones.
The price per carat does not increase smoothly with increasing
size. Instead, there are sharp jumps around milestone carat
weights, as demand is much higher for diamonds weighing just
more than a milestone than for those weighing just less. As an
example, a 0.95 carat diamond may have a significantly lower
price per carat than a comparable 1.05 carat diamond, because of
differences in demand.
A weekly price list published by Rapaport of New York, of
diamond prices per carat, for different diamond cuts, clarity
and weights, is currently considered the de-facto retail price
baseline. Jewelers often trade diamonds at negotiated discounts
off the Rapaport price (e.g., "R -3%").
In the wholesale trade of gem diamonds, carat is often used in
denominating lots of diamonds for sale. For example, a buyer may
place an order for 100 carats of 0.5 carat, D–F, VS2-SI1,
excellent cut diamonds, indicating he wishes to purchase 200
diamonds (100 carats total mass) of those approximate
characteristics. Because of this, diamond prices (particularly
among wholesalers and other industry professionals) are often
quoted per carat, rather than per stone.
Total carat weight (t.c.w.) is a phrase used to describe the
total mass of diamonds or other gemstone in a piece of jewelry,
when more than one gemstone is used. Diamond solitaire earrings,
for example, are usually quoted in t.c.w. when placed for sale,
indicating the mass of the diamonds in both earrings and not
each individual diamond. T.c.w. is also widely used for diamond
necklaces, bracelets and other similar jewelry pieces.
This article is licensed under the
GNU
Free Documentation License. It uses material from one or
more
Wikipedia article
|